A car-free day trip from Tokyo to Kanaya and Nokogiriyama: ferry, mountain walk and a fish meal

Travel memories don't always begin when you arrive at your destination.

Waiting for the ship at the port, watching the shore recede, then approach the other shore. On days when you want to enjoy every minute of it, we propose a trip to Nokogiriyama that takes you to Kanaya on the Tokyo Bay Ferry.

Plan the day around three things: a ferry journey of about 40 minutes, a walk on Nokogiriyama, and a fish meal after coming down. Give these three experiences a full day rather than adding lots of extra stops. ^[1]

From the Tokyo area, first take the train to Keikyu Kurihama Station. From the station to Kurihama Port, you will need to transfer to a local bus. The Tokyo Bay Ferry guide uses a bus from Keikyu Kurihama Station's platform 2 to the port, and the journey takes about 10 to 12 minutes depending on the route. ^[2]

First-time visitors should be aware that Kurihama Station and the ferry terminal are not in the same location. Decide which boat to board based on the time you can buy a boarding ticket at the port and head to the boarding point, not the time you arrive at the station.

It's okay to arrive a little early and wait for the departure. That waiting time is also part of the journey today.

The Tokyo Bay Ferry, which connects Kurihama Port and Kanaya Port, is also available for foot passengers. It's not just a ship for traveling by car. The sailing time to the opposite shore is approximately 40 minutes. ^[1][3]

As soon as you get on board, try to stop searching for your next route. You can look out at the ocean from the window, or go out on deck to check the wind and the information on the ship, depending on how you feel that day. If it's a clear day, it's fun to compare the scenery with the map to see what you can see and which direction the shore is.

The lower station of the Nokogiriyama Ropeway is about a 15-minute walk from Kanaya Port. After leaving the ferry, start walking toward the mountain. ^[4]

The ropeway ride takes about four minutes each way. It quickly carries you up the mountain that you could see from the port. ^[5]

At Nihon-ji Temple, Jigoku Nozoki overlooks Tokyo Bay and the Boso Peninsula, while the Hyakushaku Kannon relief is carved into a former quarry wall. As well as a place to look out to sea, it is a landscape where rock and faith meet. ^[6]

The name Jigoku Nozoki, or a glimpse into hell, might sound like a test of courage. There is no need to prove anything. If you are uncomfortable with heights, do not force yourself out to the edge; enjoy the view from somewhere you feel secure.

In front of the Hyakushaku Kannon relief, take time for a different kind of looking. Notice the size of the rock wall, your distance from the figure and the angle from which you look up. Pausing rather than just taking a photograph and passing on may leave a different impression.

It is important to note that using the ropeway does not eliminate the need to walk around the temple grounds. Nihonji Temple is located in a mountain precinct with many stairs. Prepare comfortable walking shoes and drinks, and plan to focus on the highlights at the top of the mountain at first. Please consider this separately from the itinerary that covers the entire area including the Great Buddha. ^[7]

Once you get off the mountain, have a meal near Kanaya Port.

For a cooked fish dish, consider the restaurant at the Fish. Its information lists fried horse mackerel and seafood rice bowls, as well as pasta and pizza. It is an option for sitting down with a sea view, or for a group whose food preferences differ. ^[8]

On days when you want to eat sushi, go to "Local Fish Sushi Funaosa Sohonten." The official menu includes nigiri of ground horse mackerel and ground horse mackerel namero, and you can enjoy choosing the local fish according to the day's procurement. ^[9][10]

You don't have to go through both at once. Are you really hungry after walking in the mountains, or do you want to eat a little at a time until it's time for the boat? Choose one restaurant as your favorite and another as a different option so that you can decide on a meal based on your current mood.

For this course, we recommend leaving Tokyo in the morning, arriving at Kanaya in the morning, and having a slightly late lunch after hiking in the mountains. On days when we arrive late in Kanaya, we will either shorten our time on the mountain or arrange to have a meal first.

Normal visiting hours at Nihonji Temple are 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m., with last entry at 3:00 p.m. The ropeway closes at different times during the normal and winter seasons, so please do not assume that it closes at the same time as the Nihonji temple. ^[11][5]

Ferries, the ropeway and mountain paths can all be affected by weather or maintenance. Check the information for each before setting out, and allow for visiting another day if something is unavailable. Plan so that the last return ferry is not your only option. ^[1][5][7]

Look at the mountains from above the sea, and look back at the sea from above the mountains. And eat fish at the port. The fun of this day is that your perspective changes every time you move.